Surfing Books - Page 4

Surf Diva: A Girl's Guide to Getting Good Waves

Isabelle "Izzy" Tihanyi, Caroline "Coco" Tihanyi

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 10 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Editorial Review:

From the founders of the original surf school for women, Surf Diva is both a witty, irreverently written lifestyle book and an informative how-to guide. Written with the Surf Diva School motto firmly in mind--"The best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun"--Surf Diva inspires women to suit up in neoprene and claim their share of male-dominated waves. Whether it's finding a welcoming beach or selecting the perfect surfboard, recovering from a wipeout or simply basking in the spirituality of the ocean, this book shows and tells you how to be a surfer with incomparable style and a healthy dose of beach attitude.

Offering advice from professional surfers, testimonials from surf students and instructors, and tips on how to stay safe while also having fun, Surf Diva is perfect for budding female surfers or any woman who has ever dreamed of catching a killer wave.

PRAISE FOR THE SURF DIVA SURF SCHOOL

"Surf Diva is the Starbucks of female-only surfing clinics; it's the model for scores of women's classes that have popped up around the world."-NEWSWEEK

"Surf Diva packed a real surf experience into two days. They taught camaraderie and chick power. They projected attitude, but not testosterone . . . Best of all, they got women . . . addicted to that rush of riding a wave. There is nothing like it." -LOS ANGELES TIMES

North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii

Bruce Jenkins

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 4 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

The Best of Its Kind 5 out of 5 stars.
24 of 25 people found this review helpful.

With all due respect to hard-working surf journalists everywhere, author Bruce Jenkins contributes an overdue dose of world-class penmanship to one of the world's most profound human challenges-- Big Wave Surfing. As a professional sportswriter, Jenkins has covered events such as the Stanley Cup, PGA, Superbowl, and World Series. But his true love of surfing shines forth here. He captures the attitudes, lifestyles, and mystique of the world's legendary watermen, in their rightful environment: the North Shore of Oahu. I grew up surfing on Oahu, and I can attest that, for a sane person, North Shore surfing is first and foremost about conquering horrendous personal fear. Although beautiful, the waves there are huge, thick, fast, churning, and unforgiving. One must endure deathly wipeouts and end-of-the-world-type situations, and cultivate Herculean stamina to survive the hellish ocean conditions. Each surfer chronicled here has somehow overcome these odds to make it to the elite inner circle. They represent vastly different personalities, backgrounds, physical builds, but all possess one thing in common: Big Brass Ones, and the respect of the entire surf community. I especially enjoyed the interview with big-wave rider Tom Nellis and his opinions of the scene. Nellis is entertaining and forthright as he pays respectful homage to his legendary surf peers Michael Ho, Clyde Aikau, and Gerry Lopez. All in all, Jenkins does a marvelous job capturing the "Wild West" feel of the North Shore lifestyle. He's right: talk and posturing matter very little there-- in the end, it is ultimately about who has "sack" and who doesn't. The North Shore is truly a macho frontier, and in this book you'll understand why. You'll enjoy all the profiles-- Jenkins' selection of featured surfers is very well-balanced, deep, and lasting. Even if you've never surfed, get this book. You will be intrigued. And if you suspect that these wonderful tales seem somehow exaggerated or too mythic, try paddling out to a routine, Hawaiian-sized 10-foot (i.e., two-story-high) day at Sunset Beach. If by chance you live through it, thank the Lord and remember that these guys handle waves and ocean conditions SEVERAL TIMES that heavy. Hats off to Bruce Jenkins-- and I hope he writes another one!

Editorial Review:

In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

The Perfect Day: 40 Years of Surfer Magazine

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 4 Average rating: 3.0 of 5

PERFECT? pretty darn good! 4 out of 5 stars.
12 of 13 people found this review helpful.

I was pretty excited when I saw this book - the anticipation of a chronicle of surfing history as seen through Surfer Magazine made a month of [cruddy] surf seem not so bad. The book is a big glossy coffee table number choc full of content reflecting the different eras of surfing - the incoming tide of surfing popularity (the 60s), the high tide of surfing popularity and commercialism (the 70s) the king tide of commercialism and professionalism (the 80s) and the tidal wave of popularity, tow ins, Slaterism, commercialism and professionalism (the 90s).

The foreword by undisputed big word writer Matt Warshaw (you sometimes just about need a tow in to get ya head around the way MW occasionally turns a phrase), lets it be known that he is currently writing a 500 000 word Encyclopedia of Surfing - due in about 18 months - put me down for two! MW sets up the tone of the book by stating that banal text can be found throughout Surfer, but next to such garbage one can find gems - and that's what SG has done here. This is no easy job - it's a bit like naming the Top Ten surfers of all time - you are gonna get arguments about why such and such is cool and fantastic while the other is boring as bat poo.

I suppose this walk down the memory lane did it for me nostalgia wise. Surfing has got a history (or lots of histories), and along with Kampion's Stoked and Warshaw's Surfriders, the book is a must buy for those who want to see where surfing has come from without having to flick thru the mags themselves (those of them you can still get your hands on anyway).

Surfer wasn't afraid to criticise the sport, its officials, its exploiters, its takers, nor was it shy to go in hard on environmental rapists and stupid government and fatheaded bureaucracy. And this collection reflects that.

I suppose my only criticism is that it doesn't contextualise the articles and why they were chosen in a manner that thematically exposes the areas of concern for the anthologist. But then again, SG would probably argue that it didnt set out to do that - read the articles and draw your own conclusion pal. I know that, but I would have really liked the book to tie the articles together with themes rather than chronologically -you know, the different attitudes over the past four decades to women, localism, travel, Hawaii etc.

Oh yea, one more thing - the book was published in April 2001 - at about the same time Lopez had won the second round of the ASP world tour, which was at Teahupoo. Yet the cover of the book is of Lopez at Teahupoo . Spooky? Karma? Foresight? Lucky?

Editorial Review:

"In this crowded world, the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, to be alone with the surf and his thoughts." The editorial signoff to Surfer magazine's very first issue--which was distributed from the back of a Volkswagen van in 1960--still defines a surfer's dream 40 years later. And Surfer magazine is still delivering that dream in monthly installments of the most cutting-edge surfing photographs and journalism printed anywhere. The Perfect Day celebrates 40 years of breaking waves with a collection of the finest from Surfer's famed archives. Its colorful pages are packed with the stunning images that have captured surfing's biggest moments and the compelling articles that have provided the voice for generations of surfers in search of the perfect day and the perfect wave.

Surfing California: A Complete Guide to the Best Breaks on the California Coast (Surfing Series)

Raul Guisado, Jeff Klaas

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 3 Average rating: 2.0 of 5

Terrible! 1 out of 5 stars.
7 of 7 people found this review helpful.

Don't buy this book. The pictures are all from what seems to be a one-week fly-by roadtrip in the summer, and so every spot they take a picture of is flat. That's no help at all. The info they write on each break was probably copied from somewhere else online, and most of it is wrong and outdated. It sounds as if these guys don't even surf.

Not worth the money, go with Bank Wright's classic: Surfing California

Arguable the worst book ever 1 out of 5 stars.
4 of 4 people found this review helpful.

I agree with everything the previous reviewer said and then some. A guidebook should be both accurate and have nice photos to help the reader see where they are going. The photos, especially for S.Cal, were taken on the smallest day ever. If El Cap, Campus Point, Sandspit and Rincon are point breaks then why are the pictures of beach breaks? You don't have to pay to park at any of the places they refer to as "Tamarack" (it's not the California State Park at South Carlsbad where you do have to pay to get access to the camping area) unless you give money to me as the homeless surf bum asking for spare change. Buy and use this guide at your own peril.

I would rank Cleary and Stern's Surfing Guide to Southern California the best (4 stars) even though its over 40 years old. The aerial photos are great and there are photos of the spots taken when there is actually surf. Bank Wright's is ok as are the Surfer Magazine guides (3 stars). But be sure to skip this one.

Editorial Review:

A complete guide to 200 of the best surf spots along the California coast, from the Oregon border to the Baja Peninsula. Falcon's Surfing guides provide wave riders with a complete collection of breaks, from classic surf spots to lesser-known waves. Combined with descriptions of each notable surf spot in an area, there are detailed maps, directions, parking suggestions, wave characteristics, swell direction, preferred board, and difficulty ratings.

Surfer's Guide to Hawai'i

Greg Ambrose

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 5 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Good guide for surfing Oahu and other known breaks in Hawaii 3 out of 5 stars.
37 of 38 people found this review helpful.

While this is A great guide for beginners with lots of surfing tips, the author only seems to offer good detail and research about Oahu, and many of the other major well known breaks. For the most part, the other islands don't get very good coverage. The author only lists 4 surf spots for the Big Island! If going to one of the other islands, the Beaches Guide books to each of the Hawaiian Islands by John Clark is much more informative about finding surf spots, as well as giving snorkeling and local history of the places.

IF YOU ARE ON YOUR WAY TO HAWAII, CONSIDER THIS ESSENTIAL! 5 out of 5 stars.
14 of 14 people found this review helpful.

FEW REALIZE THAT GREG IS A STAFF WRITER @HNA (HAWAII NEWSPAPER AGENCY). THE MAN KNOWS HOW TO WRITE AND HAS A DEEP UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT AND WHERE THINGS ARE HAPPENING. THE BOOK IS A VIRTUAL ROAD MAP OF OUR SURF SPOTS IN THE ISLANDS. IF A SURF TRIP TO HAWAII IS IN THE CARDS, BE SURE TO PICK IT UP. I ASSURE YOU THAT YOU WILL HAVE NO REGRETS.

Editorial Review:

This indispensable guide to surfing, bodysurfing, bodyboarding, and windsurfing on O'ahu, Kaua'i, Maui, and Hawai'i has been updated and redesigned to provide you with accurate and entertaining information about swells, wind conditions, and special features at over 50 surf spots. Includes full-color photos and maps and a directory of surf shops and camping areas.

Don James: Prewar Surfing Photographs

Don James, Matt Warshaw

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 4 Average rating: 4.0 of 5

Editorial Review:

A strong sense of nostalgia and a yearning for a simpler life are the accompaniments to the images in Don James's Pre-War Surfing Photographs. At the end of the Depression and before the beginning of WWII, James and a small group of friends lived a charmed life in Southern California. When school was out, they roamed the undeveloped Eden-like coast from Malibu to San Onofre, scraping together gas money for their worn jalopies, lugging 90-pound wooden boards to the ocean, sleeping in lifeguard huts and makeshift tent camps in the sand. They lived hand-to-mouth, plucking an endless supply of abalone and lobster from the ocean and raiding nearby orange and avocado orchards at night. What spending money they had came from guiding rumrunners to secluded coves, selling fresh fish to local restaurants, lifeguarding in posh beach clubs in Santa Monica, or acting as stuntmen and extras for Hollywood films. At that time, there were fewer than 200 surfers in the entire state, and James and his friends were inventing a beach/surf culture that would endure for decades.

In 1936, at 16 years old, James began chronicling those days with his father's folding Brownie camera. For water shots, he would place the camera in a homemade semi-waterproof pine box, rest the box atop his board, and paddle out to the calm water adjacent to the surf. Focal range of the Brownie was limited, and James preferred to keep his frame uncluttered, so many of the photographs have a similar weight and balance. The images in Pre-War Surfing Photographs are the result of his preliminary endeavours, the works that mark the beginning of James's career. Throughout his life, James continued to perfect his skills going on to take a multitude of elegant surfing photographs, for which he became famous, until his death in the 1990s. Introduction by Matt Warshaw.

Hardcover, 12 x 9.25 in./46 pgs / 38 duotones.

100 Best Surf Spots in the World: The World's Best Breaks for Surfers in Search of the Perfect Wave

Rod Sumpter

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 2 Average rating: 3.0 of 5

OK, but not always accurate, and not always the best spots. 2 out of 5 stars.
27 of 27 people found this review helpful.

This book is not really a collection of the "world's best surf spots", but rather a collection of surf spots that this author (Rod Sumptor) has visited and surfed. It probably has only about a quarter of the world's top 100 surf spots, (eg there is only one wave listed for the entire country of Indonesia-Uluwatu- which country has at least a dozen of the world's best waves). The internet and various magazines and publications have greatly expanded knowledge of the world's best waves, and they show that this book is quite incomplete in this respect. The pictures, descriptions, and general information on the various spots is ok, just not very complete. Each spot area has a 2 page coverage, with reasonable colour pictures, swell info, water temperature, consistency/month, type of break, accomodation, access, travel and other general information.

The coverage of Hawaii (21 spots), and mainland USA (13 spots) are probably the most complete, but there is only 1 spot on the whole of Central America (La Rocca), 2 in South America (one of which-Rio De Janero-is not world class), one in Morocco (Anchor Point), 3 in New Zealand (2 in Raglan and 1 in Piha), one in Indonesia (Uluwatu), one in Western Australia (Ocean Beach), 6 in Africa, 1 in Tahiti, 1 in Fiji (Tavarua island), 1 in Japan, 1 in UAE, and 1 for the Maldives. There is about 18 listed on the east coast of Australia (some of which are not world class), and 3 in Victoria. Europe gets a lobsided 25 spots, many of which surprisingly, are in the UK (11).

Seasoned surf travellers will know that this distribution is not really indicative of the world's best surf spots. A good example is the Mentawais in Indonesia, with no spots described at all, but with at least half a dozen (probably more) of the world's best waves.

Some other points and corrections:
-Some choices within countries are not the best breaks of that country, eg Punta Rocas in Peru is not considered in the same class as Panic Point or Cabo Blanco; there is no mention of Coxos in Portugal-widely considered as Portugal's best wave; Western Australia has eg Red Bluff, Strickland Bay, Margaret River, North Point, Jakes, and Gnaraloo all not mentioned, and all better than the one spot described (Ocean Beach); Indonesia, as mentioned above, has many other world class breaks outside of Uluwatu, which is the only one listed (eg G Land, Lagundri, One Palm, Asu, Bawa, Desert Point, Nihiwatu, Kandui, Rifles, HTs etc etc,); New Zealand has Shipwrecks, Stent Road, Papatowi, Seconds, the Spit and many other world class spots not mentioned (Note: A new New Zealand surf guide is out which is excellent, with 470 breaks listed, and many uncrowded).
-Some of the Australian section's Gold Coast waves have changed due to man-made intereferance at the Superbank, so this section is now out of date. Snapper, Greenmount and Kirra all have different qualities now, and they have been ridden all the way through for a measured ride of 2km p160-166.
-Broken Head sandbars are fickle p182.
-Cabarita sandbars are fickle p184.
-Manly sandbars are fickle p190.
-the picture on p129 is not of Supertubos.
-Queenscliff beach is on the north end of Manly beach, the picture in the photo on p 191 is Freshwater beach.
-Raglan is not 40 miles from Auckland airport, it is more than 100 miles p207.
-Indicators is not the most westerly point on the headland near Raglan, there is another point further round called Coloseums p206.
-Manu Bay normal rides are about 300m on a really good day, not half a mile p210.
-Lembongan is not on the east coast of Bali, it is a separate island p219, with several breaks.
-there is no break called 'Lombok'-it is an island with many breaks p218

In general, the book needs external review. The information is useful, but occasionally inaccurate, and some information is missing. The World Stormrider Guides are better and more accurate, and with more information, but the internet is still probably the best source if you are looking for information on world surf spots. Purchasing publications on individual countries or regions are also a better bet than this guide.

Editorial Review:

100 Best Surf Spots in the World will include top surfing destinations ranging from Sunset Beach and the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia to Malibu, California and Oahu, Hawaii. Lesser-known destinations such as Metigama, Sri Lanka and Aviero, Northern Portugal take readers to every corner of the globe in search of the perfect wave. Other countries that make the list include: South Africa, France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Morocco, New Zealand, Japan, Indonesia, and Fiji.

Each destination will include brilliant full-color photography of both the area and the breaks; location map, an introduction to the area, notes on the surf and why it ranked, a personal anecdote from the author while there, and a quick-reference chart including such items as skill level required, nerves needed, and surfable days.

Surfing Indonesia: A Search for the World's Most Perfect Waves (Periplus Action Guides)

Leonard Lueras, Lorca Lueras

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 1 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

The complete surf guide 5 out of 5 stars.
3 of 5 people found this review helpful.

Since I started surfing a few years ago, I have looked for a good guide book for my aim. I had not found one til i read this one. This is the complete surf guide for anyone going to Indonesia discovering its marvelous waves.

Surf Flex: Flexibility, Yoga, and Conditioning Exercises for Surfers

Paul Frediani

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 19 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Saved my life! 5 out of 5 stars.
11 of 11 people found this review helpful.

First of all,I'll review the book, then I'll tell you how it saved my life...

As a 31 year old surfer, I knew that I wasn't getting any younger, I also wasn't getting any better at surfing. I needed a lift, one that could help on days I couldn't get to, or it wasn't worth going in the water.This is it. Paul Frediani has written quite possibly the most important single book for surfers, ever published.

The book is a comprehensive training guide on flexibilty, strength, suppleness and balance, written exclusively with surfers in mind. With contributions from top surfers and watersports experts, it is also full of inspiring titbits.

The book is broken into four main training disciplines
, Flex time, the Surf Flex workout, Cardio Conditioning and the Wahine(womens)Workout.

The Flex time ection is a basic yoga guide and a guide to stretching and flexibility exercises. The exercises are accompanied by clear photos, and are a good starting point. (I would heartilty recommend "Yoga-Learn Yoga_Beginners Class 1" video, available from amazon as an excellent beginning companion.)

Cardio conditioning is a section of beach, pool and dry land workouts to get your heart pumping and your body working. I heartily agree with Frediani that all surfers need to swim at least a mile. This will help you het there.

The Wahine workout,(wahine is Hawaiian for women) is specifically designed to help women build their upper body strength and to avoid knee injuries specific to women. Highly commendable, and yes, some of the exercises are good for blokes too.

The piece de resistance is the superb Surf Flex section. This is a section designed exclusively to meet the needs of surfers. You need a Swiss ball to make the most of this section,(imagine a space hopper with no ears.)You can get them from any good sports shop, or Argos, for about $25. Money well spent! You carry out different moves, whilst balanced on the ball, such as sit-ups, knee tucks, and even pratice balancing on the ball, sitting, kneeling and then standing. This all works on the core muscles and improves your neuromuscular system, (your balance in other words.) It is superb.

This will improve your surfing, no question, but it may be more important than that...

Feb 2003 I was surfing with friends in North Devon, and after a good day of surfing, we were coming in to the end of our second session. It was a pretty big day, easily overhead, and with strong offshores. Tired but happy I decided to get out back for one last blast when I was caught in a rip and dragged into the impact zone. Try as I might I couldn't escape. To make matters worse my leash ripped off and I was left stranded with 6 footers dumping on my head and no board. I am convinced that it is only the fact that I had been following this training regime that I am alive to talk about it. The strength, determination, and cardiovascular power I needed that day came as a result of this book. The doctors actually said that if it were not for the fact that I was extremely fit I WOULD have died. Now that is an endorsement!

Editorial Review:

Surfing is one of the fastest growing recreational sports in the United States. More than 5 million men and women regularly pick up a surfboard and hit the waves. Surf Flex is the first book to address the fitness and conditioning requirements of this popular sport. Perhaps no other sport requires more agility and flexibility than surfing. Wiping out is no fun and a solid flexibility program will help prevent injuries, and keep you surfing longer and stronger. So before you hit the water, try the exercises in Surf Flex. It's guaranteed to keep your Wednesdays big and your summers endless. Whether you are a beginning or advanced surfer, Surf Flex will get you in top form to ride the waves. With contributions by leading surfers from around the world, Surf Flex includes sections on: yoga-based pre- and post-surfing stretches, cardio and strength conditioning, balance and coordination training, swimming, injury prevention and more.

A Surfer's Guide for Flexibility & Conditioning (Includes Heavy Resistive Exercise Tubing)

Rick McAvoy

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Total reviews: 4 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Editorial Review:

Any surfer,experienced or novice, will tell you that surfing demands more total body control than perhaps any other sport. Whether it is the ever-changing conditions or the long flat periods between sessions, this can leave a surfer deconditioned and at risk for injury. A Surfer's Guide for Flexibility & Conditioning is a simple yet comprehensive guide designed for male and female surfers of all abilities. Written by a leading Physical Therapist (who is also an avid surfer), this books goal is to enhance a surfers performance and to prevent the typical musculoskeletal injuries associated with surfing. Easy to follow exercises are designed to improve flexibilty, balance, timing, agility, core muscle strength, and overall conditioning. The book is spiral bound to lay flat for quick reference while perfoming the program. Included with this guide is heavy resistive exercise tubing so that no further equipment is necessary to perform this program. Whether you are at home, at the office, at the beach, on your board, or on a surf trip, you can perform this exercise system anywhere or anytime.