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K2, The Savage Mountain: The Classic True Story of Disaster and Survival on the World's Second Highest Mountain

Charles S. Houston, Robert H. Bates

K2, The Savage Mountain: The Classic True Story of Disaster and Survival on the World's Second Highest Mountain Charles S. Houston, Robert H. Bates Amazon Price: $11.53
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 8 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

HIGH ALTITUDE HEROICS... 5 out of 5 stars.
29 of 31 people found this review helpful.

A riveting read, this book chronicles the 1953 Third American Karakoram Expedition. The authors, members and integral part of that illustrious team of eight expeditioners, regale the reader with their account of the tragic circumstances with which they were faced while attempting to summit K2, a five mile high mountain, second only to Everest in height but infinitely more perilous to ascend.

The book recounts the myriad of detail which went into the formulation of that expedition, from the selection of its respective team members to the type and quantity of supplies necessary for such an ambitious endeavor. The book, in fact, includes a series of appendixes which lists in minute detail a day to day travel chronology of the expedition, a list of all equipment necessary, the breakdown of the various foods taken, the medical supplies needed for the venture, and a list of financial costs and transport requirements. In short, it provides everything one may have ever wanted to know about what goes into mounting an expedition. Nostalgia buffs, as well as climbing enthusiasts, will revel in the plethora of information!

The book also grounds the reader in the historical, as well as geographical, pedigree of K2 and the challenges which it has presented over time. It recounts the previous reconnaissances and expeditions which had traveled to the environs of K2. Interestingly enough, on this expedition, unlike prior ones, Hunza mountain porters from a small border state in northern Pakistan, rather than Sherpas, were employed, due to the prevailing political winds of the time.

The journey of the expedition over the remote and primitive reaches of the then infant country of Pakistan is a death defying venture in and of itself. Imagine the expedition with its hundred and twenty five native Balti porters, each carrying sixty pound loads, crossing raging rivers in ancient barges said to be similar to those used by Alexander the Great in leading his armies across the same river! At other times, they crossed turbulent river waters, using rafts made up of inflated animal bladders which were lashed together. They traversed across wide gorges over bridges made of woven willows and twigs. These so called bridges had an alarming tendency to turn upside down, promising to send the hapless traveler to a certain death below! Fortunately, the expedition was able to avert death at this stage of its journey.

Upon reaching Base Camp, an assault upon K2 was quickly launched. With the assistance of the Hunzas and a stretch of good weather, Camps I through III were established with a minimum of fuss. The Hunzas, however, did not progress beyond Camp III, as the expedition members felt it wiser to ascend without them, given the Hunzas' limited high altitude experience and equipment. From then on, the expeditioners, eager for a summit bid, did all the loading and carrying work up the mountain, ultimately establishing Camp VIII at an elevation of about 25,500 feet. It was there that the beginning of the end took place.

While at Camp VIII, all eight members of the expedition found themselves storm bound for seven days. Despite being buffeted by hurricane force winds, driven snow, lack of sufficient food, drink, and sleep, all while trapped in the death zone without supplementary oxygen, they still clung to their summit dream.

That dream ended abruptly when one of them became desperately ill with thrombophlebitis, and needed to be evacuated. Their nightmare had begun. Though it was seemingly impossible to lower the ill climber down the face of K2, this group of brave men would not abandon their fallen comrade. A break in the storm, a desperate plan to save their friend, and they started off with him in tow only to have their escape aborted by the potential for avalanche. They retreated back to Camp VIII and by the next day were ready to execute an alternate plan of evacuation.

Once again, they began the grim descent with their now catastrophically ill and courageous comrade in tow, this time during a storm with driven snow and gale force winds. Braced upon snow swept ridges, they began the arduous task of carefully lowering their friend down the relentlessly steep slope of K2. There, two of them survived a skirmish with an avalanche. Despite the peril, they continued down the mountain with great fortitude. Suddenly, one of them lost his footing, however, and five of them went tumbling down the mountain side, only to have their fall abruptly checked by an amazing belay executed by the youngest member of the expedition. Despite illness, injuries and frost bite, the eight man team was still intact.

Unfortunately, it was not to remain thus. Shortly after, a heartbreaking and tragic accident occurred, resulting in a death which will move the reader to tears. The book culminates in a remarkable and harrowing descent by the remaining survivors, many of whom were incapacitated by the injuries and frostbite incurred along the way. Their survival is a testament to the indomitable human spirit and its enormous will to live.

The story of the 1953 Third American Karakoram Expedition is one of the most amazing and spellbinding in the annals of mountaineering history. Gripping in its telling, it is a must read for all climbing enthusiasts and for all who simply love a great read.

Editorial Review:

IN THE SHADOW OF DENALI

    K2: Triumph and Tragedy

    Jim Curran

    K2: Triumph and Tragedy Jim Curran Amazon Price: $11.25
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    By: Mariner Books
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 26 Average rating: 3.0 of 5

    The title says it all -- and Heartfelt Account 5 out of 5 stars.
    6 of 6 people found this review helpful.

    Aside from being a great account of the tragic 1986 season at K2, Curran's book has the quality of masterfully weaving the author's sense of humor with his deeply felt emotions about lost friends.

    While some may argue that Curran was not at the forefront of leading the climbing on any of the expeditions, his keen sense of a filmmaker allows him to tell a very human story. In the great tradition of English mountaineering tradition he tells with wit and humor about the scrambles in putting the expedition together. His storytelling about the trials and challenges in the walk-up to base camp is equaled in its jovial spirit perhaps only by Greg Child (see "Thin Air").

    When true drama begins to unfold with the death of Casarotto, Curran does not simply "recount" the casualties -- his voice is full of passion, heartache and doubt. His reflections upon the dangers of mountain climbing are deeply felt.

    A highly recommended read!

    Editorial Review:

    Before the 1996 Everest disaster made that mountain synonymous with tragedy at 8,000 meters, there was K2. More technical in most routes than Everest, the world's second-highest peak is considered the ultimate achievement by many mountaineers. In 1986 K2 claimed the lives of 13 climbers in nine different parties attempting its summit. Author Jim Curran was on the mountain during the ordeal, and through narrative and photographs, Curran documents the sagas of success, failure, and tragedy in a fateful year that captured the world's attention. Alongside the terror of avalanches, crevasses, and horrific storms are stories of bravery and the indomitable human spirit.

    Pakistan (Nelles Map)

    Nelles Maps

    Pakistan (Nelles Map) Nelles Maps Amazon Price: $10.95
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 1 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

    Pakistan (Nelles Map) 5 out of 5 stars.
    3 of 6 people found this review helpful.

    I am traveling to Pakistan this June and July to attend the worlds Highest Polo Match.
    Travel to the Shandur Pass in the HinduKush area will be overland and having the map will let me know just where I am at all times.

    Editorial Review:

    Folded road and travel map in color. Scale 1:1,500,000. Distinguishes roads ranging from expressways to minor roads/tracks. Legend includes railways, international airports, airports/airfields, places of interest, archaeological sites, National Parks/nature reserves, beaches, mountain peaks, markets, hotels, churches, mosques, Hindu Temples. Includes inset of Lahore, Peshawar, Karachi.

    Temptations of the West: How to Be Modern in India, Pakistan, Tibet, and Beyond

    Pankaj Mishra

    Temptations of the West: How to Be Modern in India, Pakistan, Tibet, and Beyond Pankaj Mishra Amazon Price: $11.25
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 12 Average rating: 3.5 of 5

    The Effects of Globalization on the Indian Sub Continent Through the Eyes of a Brahmin Journalist. 4 out of 5 stars.
    4 of 4 people found this review helpful.

    Mishra is an Upper Caste Hindu Journalist who tries to show us the conditions of the States of the Indian Subcontinent as a result of Globalization and Modernization through his eyes and experiences. We follow him as he interacts with people in different castes, politics, Bollywood Entertainment, the Police, the Military, Militias, education, and simple peasants.

    We get a history of Indian/Pakistani Politics since 1948 from his experiences. We get a simple understanding of how India has florished while Pakistan has floundered. Of how the Congress party of Nehru and the Gandhi's have been overcome by the rise of Hindu Nationalist parties like the BJP.

    He visits the Kashmir and we can see how it became India's Northern Ireland with the exception that both sides are armed with nuclear weapons. The Troubles there are similar but the killing is magnified 10 fold as no human rights groups manitor the Indian nor the Pakistani armies for human rights violations.

    We get a glimpse of the Bollywood scene in Mumbai. How it is similar to the Holywood Studio system of the 40's(maybe the 30's as each film seems to have a song and dance number). We get an understanding of what is acceptable on film in that culture and why there was such a hue and cry recently over Richard Gere's kiss in public.

    Mishra's strength is that he lets his subjects tell the story of their lives and how the World has changed around them. His most compelling sections are where he relates his own life experiences. I recommend the book as an excellent glimpse into the cultures of South Central Asia.

    Editorial Review:

    A New York Times Book Review Editors' Choice In Temptations of the West, Pankaj Mishra brings literary authority and political insight to bear on journeys through South Asia, and considers the pressures of Western-style modernity and prosperity on the region. Beginning in India, his examination takes him from the realities of Bollywood stardom, to the history of Jawaharlal Nehru's post-independence politics. In Kashmir, he reports on the brutal massacre of thirty-five Sikhs, and its intriguing local aftermath. And in Tibet, he exquisitely parses the situation whereby the atheist Chinese government has discovered that Tibetan Buddhism can be "packaged and sold to tourists." Temptations of the West is essential reading about a conflicted and rapidly changing region of the world.

    Last Step: The American Ascent of K2

    Rick Ridgeway

    Last Step: The American Ascent of K2 Rick Ridgeway List Price: $25.00
    By: Mountaineers Books
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 20 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

    Editorial Review:

    The personal story of the 1978 American team who, following five failed attempts by previous American teams, gained the summit of K2, the second highest and most difficult mountain in the world.

    In September 1978, Rick Ridgeway, Jim Wickwire, Lou Reichardt and John Roskelley stood atop K2, the first Americans ever to achieve that victory. Under the leadership of Jim Whittaker, they and their teammates had spent 67 days on the mountain, nearly all of them above 18,000 feet, where the stresses of high-altitude living, of monotonous food, of confinement in tiny tents for day after day of frustrating storms had worn them down to the core.

    The Last Step is Rick Ridgeway's inside story of this extraordinary expedition. It's about the people who, battered by the mountain and their isolation, overcame their individual fears, desires, and disappointments to work together to get somebody - anybody - to the top of K2. It's about the glorious success the team achieved, and about the perilous bivouac Jim Wickwire spent just below the summit without food, oxygen, or shelter in temperatures of -40 degrees.

    A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

    Eric Newby

    A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush Eric Newby List Price: $12.95
    By: Lonely Planet Publications
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 30 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

    Editorial Review:

    For more than a decade following the end of World War II, Eric Newby toiled away in the British fashion industry, peddling some of the ugliest clothes on the planet. (Regarding one wafer-thin model in her runway best, he was reminded of "those flagpoles they put up in the Mall when the Queen comes home.") Fortunately, Newby reached the end his haute-couture tether in 1956. At that point, with the sort of sublime impulsiveness that's forbidden to fictional characters but endemic to real ones, he decided to visit a remote corner of Afghanistan, where no Englishman had planted his brogans for at least 50 years. What's more, he recorded his adventure in a classic narrative, A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush. The title, of course, is a fine example of Newby's habitual self-effacement, since his journey--which included a near-ascent of the 19,800-foot Mir Samir--was anything but short. And his book seems to furnish a missing link between the great Britannic wanderers of the Victorian era and such contemporary jungle nuts as Redmond O'Hanlon.

    At times it also brings to mind Evelyn Waugh, who contributed the preface. Newby is a less acidulous writer, to be sure, and he has little interest in launching the sort of heat-seeking satiric missiles that were Waugh's specialty. Still, A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush is a hilarious read. The author excels at the dispiriting snapshot, capturing, say, the Afghan backwater of Fariman in two crisp sentences: "A whole gale of wind was blowing, tearing up the surface of the main street. Except for two policemen holding hands and a dog whose hind legs were paralysed it was deserted." His capsule history of Nuristan also gets in some sly digs at Britain's special relationship with the violence-prone Abdur Rahman:

    Officially his subsidy had just been increased from 12,000 to 16,000 lakhs of rupees. To the British he had fully justified their selection of him as Amir of Afghanistan and, apart from the few foibles remarked by Lord Curzon, like flaying people alive who displeased him, blowing them from the mouths of cannon, or standing them up to the neck in pools of water on the summits of high mountains and letting them freeze solid, he had done nothing to which exception could be taken.
    Newby also surpasses Waugh--and indeed, most other travel writers--in another important respect: he's miraculously free of solipsism. Even the keenest literary voyagers tend to be, in the purest sense of the term, self-centered. But A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush includes wonderfully oblique portraits of the author's travel companion, Hugh Carless, and his wife, Wanda (who plays a starring role in such subsequent chronicles as Slowly down the Ganges). There are also dozens of brilliant cameo parts, and an indelible record of a stunning landscape. The roof of the world is, in Newby's rendering, both an absolute heaven and a low-oxygen hell. Yet the author never pretends to pit himself against a malicious Nature--his mountains are, in Frost's memorable phrase, too lofty and original to rage. Which is yet another reason to call this little masterpiece a peak performance. --James Marcus

    In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods

    Galen Rowell

    In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods Galen Rowell List Price: $19.95
    By: Random House, Inc.
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 4 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

    Huge Egos on a Huge Mountain 4 out of 5 stars.
    4 of 4 people found this review helpful.

    I thoroughly enjoyed this account of the 1975 American K2 Expedition. The wonderful photos and the well-written text were some of the best I've encountered in mountaineering literature.

    I liked how Galen Rowell interspersed his account of the expedition with earlier accounts of K2 attempts, some successful and some not. They gave an interesting insight into the history of this tough mountain and the people who have climbed it. The journal excerpts from various 1975 team members were insightful and intriguing. I am now going to start on "The Last Step" by Rick Ridgeway, about the 1978 American K2 expedition. Apparently, this team wasn't without their problems either.

    I found it ironic, that after all the team discussion about the possibly negative implications of having a woman (Dianne Roberts) on the team, especially the wife of the leader, that she really figured very little in the disputes and quarrels. It was also ironic that there was still a lot of dissention and miscommunication amongst the team members on the actual expedition, even after the team expelled Alex Bertulis from the original team, due to lack of confidence in his ability to be a team player.

    Read it, you won't be disappointed. I gave it a four because I found the first couple of chapters hard to get into. But once the '75 team is formed, it picks up quickly and then is quite hard to put down.

    Unfortunately, Galen Rowell, the author of this book and a well-known photographer, recently was killed in a plane crash near his home in California with his wife.

    Editorial Review:

    This is the first paperback editon of the classic eyewitness account, by photo-journalist and climber Galen Rowell, of the unsuccessful 1985 American attempt to scale K2, the world's second-highest mountain peak in the Karakoram Range between China and Kashmir. Black-and-white and color photographs.

    The Silk Roads, 2nd: includes routes through Syria, Turkey, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan and China (Silk Roads: A Route & Planning Guide)

    Paul Wilson

    The Silk Roads, 2nd: includes routes through Syria, Turkey, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan and China (Silk Roads: A Route & Planning Guide) Paul Wilson Amazon Price: $17.21
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    Editorial Review:

    The Silk Road was never a single thread but an intricate web of trade routes – Silk Roads – linking Asia and Europe. This new practical guide helps travellers explore all these threads and covers Turkey, Syria, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan and China.
    · Getting to the region from North America, Europe and Australasia
    · How to travel – train, bus or plane
    · Trips for all budgets – from $15 a day to over $150 a day
    · What to see and where to go
    · Full reviews of hotels and restaurants
    · Comprehensive chapter on the historical background of this most famous of all trade routes
    · 50 maps and town plans
    · Adapted from Silk Route by Rail, which was shortlisted for the Thomas Cook Guide Book of the Year Awards
    · Covers more countries than other Silk Road guides – Turkey, Syria, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan and China

    Days and Nights on the Grand Trunk Road

    Anthony Weller

    Days and Nights on the Grand Trunk Road Anthony Weller List Price: $12.95
    By: Marlowe & Company
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 6 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

    learning 5 out of 5 stars.
    6 of 6 people found this review helpful.

    A. Weller is a superb writer, I learned more about India in 10 pages than I could have in a year of school. Although the names, and dates can be eye crossing after awhile, it only showed me that mr. Weller did a ton of research, and cut no corners' in writing this book. From keen observations interspersed with humerous encounters with strangers' and beauracratic red tape, I applaud mr. Weller for writting a book the he could be proud of first, and not an "India for dummies". Rock on Tony!!

    Mildly entertaining travel book. 3 out of 5 stars.
    5 of 6 people found this review helpful.

    Not a bad book, but not particularly good either.

    Weller, while intelligent and well-meaning, doesn't seem to know very much about India. To be sure, he's done some background reading -- at the end he provides a curious list of dated references -- but his knowledge seems flimsy. One does not get the feeling that he's studied or thought deeply about the country, its history or culture; but rather that he's parroting views he's read in books or that he's simply reacting to what he sees on the road. As a result one doesn't have confidence in his attempts to synthesize the meaning of India's past or its prospects in the future. What he has to say in this regard is rather banal in any case. I suspect he included these broad pronouncements -- about the population problem, about communal violence -- only because this is what people have come to expect from travel writers, instant and concise analyses of foreign cultures. Unfortunately not every travel writer is a Naipaul.

    Also, his narrative of his encounters on the road is simply not interesting. It's not boring exactly, just bland. He meets uninteresting people, has brief uninteresting conversations, and then moves on.

    Editorial Review:

    A "wryly observant travelogue . . . brimming with beauty and strangeness" ("Kirkus Reviews"), this work recreates the author's remarkable adventures on the ancient route that spans India and Pakistan.

    Photographic Guide to Birds of India and Nepal: Also Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka

    Bikram Grewal

    Photographic Guide to Birds of India and Nepal: Also Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka Bikram Grewal Amazon Price: $12.92
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    Customer Reviews:
    Total reviews: 1 Average rating: 1.0 of 5

    A Photgraphic Misguide. 1 out of 5 stars.
    9 of 10 people found this review helpful.

    Years of birds and birdwatching has proved that for the purpose of reference books or field guides, good illustrations win hands down over photographs. A photograph of a bird is O.K. till it stays in a personal collection or, at most, in a exhibition where wannabe birdwatchers can drool over it. For a serious birdwatcher in a field, a photograph is useless.And it's not that there is a lack of illustrators. They virtually abound : Carl D' Silva, John H. Dick, Martin Woodcock, Irani, just to name a few.

    Some of the "features" of this book, mentioned at the back, are ironies in themselves. The first one reads : "Distinctive thumbnail colour tabs outlining each family group to enable quick identification" The tabs in question are little coloured squares at the top left and top right of each alternating left and right pages respectively indicating the family of the birds on that particular page, the key to which is located on page 7.The so called quick identifiacation of a bird family is the last thing on a birdwatcher's mind. Perchance the refernce is to the birds themselves, then , well it will be a insult of the readers's intellect if I say that a commonly accepted vernacular name of a species renders any such tabs meaningless. Anyway, the process of identifying a family with the help of these tabs is anything but quick.

    The second one says : "Compact, easy-to-use format; the ideal pocket-size travelling companion". Oh yes, this book is compact alright. And it fits into the pocket very easily. The photographs are small to begin with and in some cases, legs of birds are neatly cut off(Peregrine Falcon, pg 44; Great Horned Owl, pg 77).The distribution maps are even smaller and vague to the extreme. A cheap Agatha Christie is a better travelling companion than this.

    The third goes : "Authoritative text describing key identification features". This "authoratative text", dear reader, is a detailed description of plumage followed by habitat, some general characters and call. The first part(plumage description)takes up 85 % of the text and so there remains little space for the rest of the things. Compare this with the precise notes of "A Book Of Indian Birds"(Salim Ali) or the to-the-point, brief but short accompanies of "A Pictorial Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent"(Salim Ali. S. Dillon Ripley).

    And now the main problem of photographs. They are, as I said earlier, small. And they depict only the male of the species : no winter and summer plumages in water birds, no phases in raptors, no immatures, no females. Just one plain colour photograph of each species(Totalling 252, as the only sincere "feature" says). Each species is accompanied by a detailed description of plumage(Refer to Feature 3). This itself shows the author's lack of trust on the credibility of the photographs to act as useful guides. The reader may argue that a single photograph is space saving; but I assure that any birdwatcher will prefer a 30x30 1 ton book on the field provided that it is competent rather than this pretty guide which is, like all pretty things, worthless.

    Most of the phototgraphs are tolerable to a little extent, but some really blow you off. Try, for example, to make out birds from their shadows : Chestnut Bittern(p 22), Kalij Pheasant(p 49), Red Junglefowl(p 50), Tailor Bird(p 117), Lesser Whitethroat(p118). Or, if you prefer grass and other foliage, you can try your hand at Honey Buzzard(p 36), Grey Partridge(p 47), Jungle Bush Quail(p 48), Bengal Florican(p 56), Common Fantail Snipe(p 63), Sylark(p 92), Black Bulbul(p 108). Many smaller birds are shown in nests and I will and I will name them as "breeding unidentifyables" : Common Wood Shrike(p 104), Common Iora(p 105), Goldfronted Leafbird(p 106), YellowEyed Babbler(p 109), Quaker Babbler(p 112), Streaked Fantail Warbler(p 116), Ashy Wren Warbler(p 117), Tickell's Flowerpecker(p 129). Two are evn shown being held in hand: Paddyfield Warbler(p 118), Goldfinch(p 137).

    That is the problem : birds, photographed in their natural surroundings will certainly present all these problems, whereas in illusrtations, it is in the artist's hand to depict a bird as he wants. All the photgraphs are excellent in themselves; but in the context of a field guide, they are wasted. The choice of birds also beats logic. The book contains 252 species which rae obviously meant to be common. But the Pelicans(p 15), Swamp Partridge(p 48), Blacknecked Crane(p 52), Siberian Crane(p 58), Slaty-headed Parakeet(p 74), the Nightjars(p 79), Blur-bearded BeeEate(p 84), Red-billed Chough(p 102), White throated Laughing Thrush(p 111), Streaked River Chat(p 123), Cinnamon Tree Sparrow(p 132), Allied Grosbeak(p 137), the Buntings(p 139) are all relatively uncommon and restricted. Some birds which are more common and which, I feel, should have been included are : Intermediate Egret, Black Eagle, Pale Harrier, Common Bustard-Quail, Satyr Tragopan, Demoiselle Crane, Houbara, Indian Plaintive Cuckoo, Common Indian Nightjar, Palm Swift, Heartspotted Woodpecker, Indian Cliff Swallow, Swallow(atleast one of them), Red headed Bunting, Black headed Bunting. Obviously, the availibility of photographs ruled the list of birds. It is surprising, because logic says that the photgraphs of commoner birds should be more available then rare ones.

    Editorial Review:

    Pocket-sized photo guide to 252 species of birds in Indian and Nepal. Features individual accounts and a color photo for each species covered.

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