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Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel

Eric Boman, Iris Apfel

Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel Eric Boman, Iris Apfel Amazon Price: $37.80
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 5 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

Editorial Review:

Captures the unique style of fashion maverick Iris Apfel and her exuberantly idiosyncratic personal chic.

With remarkable panache and discernment, Iris Apfel combines styles, colors, textures, and patterns without regard to period, provenance, or aesthetic conventions. Now in her mid-eighties, she is a unique style icon.

Over ninety sumptuous color plates, photographed by Eric Boman, show off a selection of Apfel's extraordinary outfits on wittily posed mannequins, some sporting her trademark outsized spectacles. The originality of her style is typically revealed in her mixing of Dior haute couture with flea-market finds, Dolce & Gabbana lizard trousers with nineteenth-century ecclesiastical vestments, pink Lanvin worn with ropes of Navajo turquoise. Apfel's eclectic pieces might come from a Parisian couture house, an American thrift shop, or a North African souk, or they may have been made to her own design in a tiny studio.

Detailed captions describe every aspect of the outfits, including names and dates of designers, plus full information on fabrics and accessories. A selection of audacious accessories also comes under the spotlight: a giant necklace made of bear claws, a turn-of-the-century Indian horse ornament worn as a necklace, a parrot's-head brooch in colored glass and rhinestones.

The book includes an introduction by Harold Koda, director of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and an essay by Apfel herself, describing her lifelong love affair with style and illustrated with vintage photographs from her personal collection. 169 illustrations, 149 in color.

Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It

Dorothy Hartley

Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It Dorothy Hartley Amazon Price: $9.56
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 11 Average rating: 3.0 of 5

For the serious Re-inactor 3 out of 5 stars.
13 of 13 people found this review helpful.

I'm of mixed feelings on this book .
First, if you don't own a single costuming book, then get it, just for some inspiration.

The best reason for anyone to get the book is the illustrations......over 200 period illustrations to use for inspiration.
Granted, they're in black and white.......so you don't get the colors to see, but Ms Hartley often describes the colors, so that helps.
She has provided a number of pages of detailed line-drawing illustrations to help explain/show how cloth was cut and sewn to create various outfits.
As such, they are helpful, sometimes.
Ditto, other times they are off the mark.

Some of her interpretations are, shall I say 'creative' without adequate proof in her period sources to support her theories of construction.
With that, I have some major problems, but if her purpose is to give a resonable facsimile for stage interpretation, then her theories are adequate.
If her purpose was to provide accurate historical information, then she is often being misleading in regards to the needs of the serious historical re-inactor.
i.e. she interprets the 'modesty panel' triangular insert, in a 15th c. gown as a 'vest'. Granted, she says "a small triangular vest" so maybe her idea of a vest, and mine, are merely a difference in understanding. But her perception of a Hellsgate overgown is off the mark. Because the upper portion of the winter worn ones is often covered in, or lined with, fur, she incorrectly interprets the upper portion as a totally seperate garment, calling it a 'sleeveless jacket/coat' and both her line drawings and her text clearly indicate she genuinely believed it to have been such, stating : ".........shows a sleeveless jacket which must have been comforting in drafty halls-it may be fur-lined, or only fur trimmed- but it is definately part of the jacket. The front seems to be stiffened by light strips of wood or whalebone (I have major problems with this, as it has no sound basis, at all. Stiffening elements were used, in later times, as means of support, but were not needed for this garment, which hung loosely. Her interpretation is apparently based on the stiff appearance of the panels, but this is due to the heavy weight of the (Attached)skirts holding it vertical)..... and the jacket secured to it firmly by metal studs or clasps. The whole jacket is essentially a sturdy little affair, and though in some cases it seems to have been worn as part of the robe, we believe it was always made and put on seperately."

Her line drawings shows it as a simple fur-lined vest (with a normal sleeveless opening......which her period illustrations do not support, at all ) and a line drawing of one (vest) with a button-front panel down the center, which she has taken the creative measure of showing 'how' it was 'surely' attached to the edges of the front vest opening, by way of 4 buttons at the corners of the front insert, going through button holes, in the vest, barely concealed at the edges of the fur edging along the front edges. There is absolutely no historical evidence to support this theory; she had, clearly gotten it in her head, that this was a seperate jacket, and is attempting to demonstrate how the period variations might have been achieved, to support this silly idea. I need to add that in many of her other line drawings she seems to rule out the cut of the cloth pieces being a shaping factor, and, instead, resorts to the use of darts to show how to achieve a fitted look. Only in two incidences has she shown the use of gores to widen a skirt. In at least two cases (of men's garments) she has done something interesting with the cloth directly below where the cut goes into the body of the cloth, to isolate the sleeve for sewing the underarm seam. She has, instead of cutting it from the body of the garment, (to use as sleeves, etc.) left it, open and seamless, to wrap the front, back around the sides of the body, and the back panels, forward over those to create a double layer of cloth at either side of the torso, (for warmth ?) held in by the belt. I've never seen the first bit of period source to support this theory, nor does any of her period sources provided in the book, support it. She also shows an interesting theory on the cut of a laborer's shirt with high collar (under her chapter on 'Artisans' oddly enough) Cuts are made down either side of what is to be the high collar, and the cloth, to either side of the collar, is folded down over the shoulders in a manner like the side panels earlier mentioned, and stitched into place. Once again, she tucks in darts to shape with. She also elaborates on her 'padded shoulders' theories by showing two other drawings of "shoulder flaps" again, un-supported by any evidence in the form of period illuminations, etc.

Dispite all of this, believe it, or not, but I Still LIKE the book !!!
It's well worth the money in period pictures, if for no other reason.

I also like the fact that she's steered away from the usual emphasis on royal garments, and has concentrated her efforts on the clothes of the everyday common man, dividing her chapters to cover individual professions. Her line drawings are excellent, even if off-the-mark at times with her theories of construction......she has nicely isolated some interesting details of accessories to go with the different professions and situations, as in the clappers, etc. that the lepers were required to announce their approach,...her text in these things, elaborates more on the assorted situations, with helpful historical information.

All in all, my single largest problem with her concise little book is when it comes down to her attempts to introduce her own theories as to construction; using her line drawings to try and prove how her theories might have been achieved, while she neglects to provide period sources to give visual support to her ideas. As a quick guide to theatrical costuming, it has it's merits. As a first costuming book for Medieval Historical re-inactors, it is valuable for the period illustrations, but her interpretations often need to be taken with a grain of salt, as many will not fly if entered in an A & S costuming competition, judged by informed judges...so you be the judge of how valuable this book may be in your library. I have over 100 costuming books in my own, and I'm still glad I added this one, if for no other reason than as a sometimes bad example,....but, again, the period illustrations are well worth the cost of the book. R.D. Wertz/Shara of Meridies

Editorial Review:

This unique reference classifies the clothes and accessories of the 12th through the 15th centuries along social lines. Garments of every type, from the wardrobes of peasants and nobility, appear in over 200 period illustrations and patterns. Helpful advice covers: choosing fabrics, placement of seams, draping and folding garments, more. 203 black-and-white illustrations.

Christian Lacroix on Fashion

Patrick Mauries, Olivier Saillard, Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix on Fashion Patrick Mauries, Olivier Saillard, Christian Lacroix Amazon Price: $40.95
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 1 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

Editorial Review:

The story of fashion from the eighteenth century to the present day, as told by Christian Lacroix and illustrated with examples of his own designs and historic costumes.

"This is not a retrospective, but my own look at the costume collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, from which I chose pieces from all eras, some never before exhibited. I chose those that were most inspiring, those that best told the story of fashion that I would have wanted to tell if I were the museum curator that I intended to be when I was a student.

"My twenty years in the fashion business are another way of telling this story, and I selected the strongest designs from the haute couture collections of the Maison Lacroix between 1987 and 2007, then arranged them according to themes—black and white, color, flowers, ethnic styles, and so forth—and linked them with pieces from the museum collection." —Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix is one of the most inventive and admired fashion designers in the world. He is also incredibly well-versed in fashion history, and he brings that expertise to bear in this delightful imaginary museum of historic and contemporary fashion. Each featured piece—whether from the museum's collection or the Maison Lacroix—is distinguished by its cut, its detail, its color, and its texture; and the pieces are juxtaposed and photographed in a way that emphasizes their relationships across the centuries. 200 color illustrations.

The Triumph of Individual Style : A Guide to Dressing Your Body, Your Beauty, Your Self

Carla Mason Mathis, Helen Villa Connor, Carla Mason Mathis, Helen Villa Connor

The Triumph of Individual Style : A Guide to Dressing Your Body, Your Beauty, Your Self Carla Mason Mathis, Helen Villa Connor, Carla Mason Mathis, Helen Villa Connor Amazon Price: $35.00
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 17 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

If 'unuseful' were a word, I'd use it. 1 out of 5 stars.
22 of 26 people found this review helpful.

I am a fashion designer who was looking for some good resource books to help with figure-appropriate designs. I came across this book after a long search and thought I had found gold. Unfortunately, it was not what I expected. I was really disappointed with the line sketches used to explain clothing choices and found those designs to be VERY outdated- especially considering the second printing was in 2002. For example, I could not disagree more with the advice for rectangular-shaped women- that they should opt for sack dresses that ignore the waist, rather than trying to create one.
The chapters on jewlery choices and color charts were equally useless.
I would not recommend this book to any fashion designer looking for figure-flattering design elements. "Dress Your Best" by Stacy London and Clinton Kelly is by far a better choice- especially considering the price.

Editorial Review:

This text aims to teach the reader how to assess her body type and then choose clothing
that looks good on her. The process involves what the authors call an individual s design
pattern. This pattern is made up of lines, shapes, proportions, body particulars, scale,
colors, and textures. How they fit together in harmony and how an individual infuses them
with her innate creativity is what authors call style.

Luxury Fashion Branding: Trends, Tactics, Techniques

Uche Okonkwo

Luxury Fashion Branding: Trends, Tactics, Techniques Uche Okonkwo Amazon Price: $36.76
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 6 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Editorial Review:

"Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends." These words, spoken by Gabrielle Coco Chanel in the early twentieth century, remain as true as ever in our current society. Luxury fashion has seeped into every sphere of our consumer society. It has become the norm to aspire towards attaining the delectable goods of brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Dior. This desire is further heightened by the fact that fashion has been made more available to the masses by brands like H&M and Zara who continuously offer luxury-style goods at lower prices. Also, globalization and technological and communications advancement have made fashion even more accessible. Consumers can now shop at will on the Internet, access a wide variety of goods and exchange instant brand experiences. These have made the average fashion consumer savvy, demanding and restless. To put it mildly, the luxury consumer and the luxury landscape have changed!

What do these imply for luxury fashion brands? A changing sector currently undergoing an important market evolution, internal management shifts and rapid expansion, in dire need of strategic business direction.

Luxury Fashion Branding is the groundbreaking first book of its kind that addresses the business of luxury fashion from a strategic viewpoint. It critically analyses the essential aspects of the luxury fashion sector from tracing the origins of luxury fashion to assessing its consumers, retailing tactics, branding and marketing strategy, business modelling and e-retail.

Presented in a clear language with pictorial illustrations, Luxury Fashion Branding will make an engaging reading for anyone who wishes to learn about the captivating business of turning functional products into objects of desire.

Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label

Christian Esquevin

Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label Christian Esquevin Amazon Price: $31.50
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 5 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

glamour de luxe, film style 5 out of 5 stars.
11 of 11 people found this review helpful.

adrian, a/k/a gilbert adrian, was one of the few designers for the classic hollywood films that did not blow his own horn during his time in the fashion industry as both costume designer and couturier.

in his somewhat short life, he worked hard, played hard and draped some of the film industry's most glamourous bodies in uniquely beautiful designs. his creativity was unstoppable. yet, in a weird twist of fate, he was never to compete for an academy award.

it is a wonderful thing to see another book published about this genius/workhorse! there are some of his gowns that defy description, such as his 'letty lynton' dress with its wildly ruffled sleeves. or, his showgirl get-ups that were featured in 'the great ziegfeld' and re-used time and again for mgm's less lavish musicals. and his period designs for the films of garbo and jeanette macdonald (to name a few), while not painstakingly researched, supply great amounts of aura for these actresses and the films.

it would be nice for the academy to pay tribute to him, travis banton and many others one year. but as it won't get more people to watch, it probably won't happen.

but that's fine. let the books keep coming and let the reinvestigations of the makings of glamour, hollywood style, spark many a scholarly discussion as they should.

Editorial Review:

This book highlights and showcases many of Adrian great costume and fashion designs from the 1920s through the 1950s. Not only are his timeless glamour gowns, period costumes, and amazing show-girl costumes shown from the movies, but also his impeccable suits and beautiful gowns from his private label. The ten years of Adrian Ltd. are summarized year-by-year, and his life with Janet Gaynor and his taste for decorating and art are described.

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915

Katherine Strand Holkeboer

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915 Katherine Strand Holkeboer Amazon Price: $35.00
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 32 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

My Bible for Costume 5 out of 5 stars.
3 of 4 people found this review helpful.

I found this book around 25 years ago. At that time it didn't have any explinations, only the designs and some general info in the front. I do pre 1660 re-enactment and still use and teach from my well worn copy. I put it in a notebook and lend out sheets to explain how pieces go together. It isn't totally accurate, but it is a starting place for new costumers. It is easier to explain changes to make it accurate from there.

Wonderful sourcebook 5 out of 5 stars.
3 of 4 people found this review helpful.

I am a costume designer and have had this book for many years. I
recently purchased a copy for one of my student workers who has
gone on to pursue a degree in costume design. It is a great book
for fashion history overview. It is full of basic period patterns
that are simple to draft and then use your own details.
It accessible to beginners but a wonderful resource for professionals
as well.

Great for general ideas, but can be off on specifics. 4 out of 5 stars.
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.

I first found this book at the library, and eventually, I did get a copy for myself. It is valuable for the extensive time period it covers, and has moderately well drafted patterns. As someone else mentioned, they have to be corrected every once in a while (though maybe not the extent they claimed.)

I do have one nitpick about this, though. As the title suggest, this is for theater. It's for getting the *spirit* of the costume. Yes, their provided silhouettes are correct. However, their patterns aren't, necessarily. They are simplified a lot, to *look* the same way, but if you're searching for historical accuracy, then it's best to double check.

Don't get me wrong, it's a great, useful book, but it's not always the one I want to turn to for period work.

Editorial Review:

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand Holkeboer is back in print at the same $29.95 price.

Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) (F.I.T. Collection)

Roberto Cabrera, Patricia Flaherty Meyers

Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) (F.I.T. Collection) Roberto Cabrera, Patricia Flaherty Meyers Amazon Price: $49.50
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 10 Average rating: 4.0 of 5

Difficult read 4 out of 5 stars.
12 of 13 people found this review helpful.

This book is not for beginning sewers! It's not an easy book to get through. If you are really ready to make a suit jacket that will be comparable to $1,000 designer jackets, I'd recommend you also have on hand Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket. The pictures in that book are much clearer and easier to follow. And that book shows methods of tailoring with fusible interfacing.

Also, the Zapp Method of Couture Sewing has a great chapter on sewing a tailored jacket. Still, I do believe that a really fine jacket needs to use sew-in hymo hair canvas just as Roberto Cabrera (the author) recommends. It makes a tremendous difference.

If you must use fusibles, then Anna Zapp's method using Fusible Acro is best. I think, however, you will find it eventually separates after many dry cleanings.

You'll most likely need the internet to find these interfacings because places like Jo-Anne's certainly don't carry them!

Classic tailoring techniques 1 out of 5 stars.
7 of 18 people found this review helpful.

Excellent resource for those desiring to know how to create really beautiful jackets for men or women. Completely replaces pattern instructions purchased with the envelope.

Costume Designer's Handbook: A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers

Liz Covey, Rosemary Ingham

Costume Designer's Handbook: A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers Liz Covey, Rosemary Ingham Amazon Price: $26.55
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 4 Average rating: 4.0 of 5

Excellent overview of process 5 out of 5 stars.
17 of 24 people found this review helpful.

This is a great resource for the design process. I especially use these guidelines for analysis of a play and characters whenever I design a show. A must have for anyone interested in designing shows!!

Editorial Review:

Newly revised and updated, The Costume Designer's Handbook is now more comprehensive than ever and is the backbone of any costume designer's library since its original publication in 1983. Features of this new edition include:

  • a foreword by Arvin Brown, Artistic Director of the Long Wharf Theatre
  • guidance on how to read and analyze a play
  • plans for establishing a costume plot
  • insights into working with directors and other designers
  • resources for doing historical research
  • a discussion of the properties of color
  • sketching, drawing, and drafting techniques
  • an 8-page color insert
  • 150 black-and-white photos, drawings, and charts
  • a complete, up-to-date reference section

Sensual Knits: Luxurious Yarns, Alluring Designs

Yahaira Ferreira

Sensual Knits: Luxurious Yarns, Alluring Designs Yahaira Ferreira Amazon Price: $12.21
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 11 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Best pattern book I've bought in years! 5 out of 5 stars.
6 of 6 people found this review helpful.

I buy a lot of knitting books---probably too many. Usually there's a pattern or two worth knitting, and that's enough.

In this book, I'd say there's a pattern or two NOT worth knitting. Everything else is an absolute gem. I've had the book three months and I'm already knitting two sweaters from it, the striking Transparency and the classic Balloon-Sleeve Jacket (which appears on the cover).

This book should be on the shelf of any sweater knitter, especially, and anyone who wants to knit sweaters. Many of the designs are simple, but not the kind of "big-needle-fast-knit-crap" found in all too many books these days. These are thoughtful designs with shaping and drape to flatter most figures. Most are classics; a few are fashion-forward. Most are mid-weight (worsted, DK, Aran), some are lighter for a less bulky fit.

Do yourself a favor and at least flip through this book, or check it out on Ravelry. I think you'll find you can't wait to acquire a copy.

Editorial Review:

Modern knitters are simply in love with luxury yarns—and the stylish items they can make from these opulent, irresistibly touchable materials. Sensual Knits feeds their hunger for fashionable projects made specifically with the finest merinos, alpacas, silks, cashmeres, and angoras. Beautiful models display the clothing, and every exquisitely photographed garment provides a stunning example of how classic can also be very sexy. A textured jacket features a nipped waist that hugs a woman’s curves, a bishop-sleeved sweater has a daringly plunging neckline, and there are camisoles, silky negligees, and evening dresses too. And be assured: these pieces will look great for years to come, not just for a single season. Any advanced beginner who has mastered the basics can handle these patterns.

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