Cooking by Ingredient Books - Page 14

Rick Stein's Complete Seafood: A Step-by-step Reference

Rick Stein

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 8 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

Essential Seafood Cooking Reference. Buy It. 5 out of 5 stars.
26 of 27 people found this review helpful.

`rick stein's complete seafood' by, you guessed it, English restauranteur and culinary teacher, Rick Stein is the kind of book which promises great things and thereby simply invites criticism for its presumptuous title. I think I can safely say that no book that claims to be a `Bible' or `Complete' really does give either a total or fully authoritative treatment of its subject. But the fact that this book happens to be just a bit less than `complete' is no reason not to buy it, because it does give a full treatment of some very important aspects of cooking seafood.

The book is divided into three great parts containing thirteen chapters. These parts and chapters are:

Part 1 - Techniques
Introduction
Chapter 1 - Preparing Fish
Chapter 2 - Cooking Fish
Chapter 3 - Preparing raw, smoked, and cured fish
Chapter 4 - Preparing and cooking seafood

Part 2 - Recipes
Chapter 5 - Soups, stews, and mixed seafood
Chapter 6 - Large meaty fish, skate, and eels
Chapter 7 - Large Round fish
Chapter 8 - Small round fish
Chapter 9 - Flatfish
Chapter 10 - Crustaceans
Chapter 11 - Mollusks and other seafood
Chapter 12 - Stocks, Sauces, and Basic Recipes

Part 3 - Information
Chapter 13 - Seafood Families
Identifying Seafood - Pictures of seafood animal groups
Classifying Seafood - Species which may be substituted for one another
Index of Recipes

The easiest way to see where this book falls short of `completeness' is to look at Alan Davidson's three excellent volumes on seafood of the North Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and southeast Asia. Davidson's books may be more for the scholar than for the casual cook, but they do give valuable information on where to find various species, in which local cuisines they commonly occur, and hundreds of ethnically accurate recipes. Stein says very little about regionality or about specific species. Stein is a hedgehog to Davidson's fox in that Stein concentrates on grouping things best seen in his first and third parts.

His first part covers 57 seafood preparation and cooking techniques independent of any individual recipe, although he ingeniously links each technique with a specific recipe in Part 2 so that you can embed the technique within the recipe. In comparison, the best two other books on culinary techniques, Jacques Pepin's `Complete Techniques' and James Peterson's `Essentials of Cooking' have 32 and 18 techniques respectively on fish cookery. And, while I think Pepin's procedures are models of instruction, his pictures are in black and white, which looses a bit for the beginner. These differences become a bit less impressive for an amateur when you look at the specific techniques and realize that there are many techniques here which you are unlikely to ever use, especially those dealing with breaking down a whole fish.

The last part is also a great resource for the amateur cook in that it gives some ideas on what seafood species may be substituted for another. These sections also give some information on the regions of the world in which you are likely to find each species genus. As such, it gives some of the information you will find in Davidson, but organized `vertically' by genus or larger biological category rather than by species and location. This section, especially the `seafood families' chapter may take some study for those of us who slept through biology class when the aquatic phyla were being covered, as groupings are often given in unfamiliar terms such as `cephalopods'. Oddly other groupings are given in very common names such as `the herring family' or `mackerel and tuna'. The academic in me finds this annoying, not that the author did not stick to scientific names, but that there was no parallelism in section naming. The `cephalopods' section would have been better named `squid and its relatives'. The most entertaining section is the `identifying seafood' sections with what I believe are scale pictures of 98 representatives of seafood species. The selection is just a bit Eurocentric, as a picture of what I would certainly call a `Maine' lobster is named a `European Lobster'. And, while there are six crab pics, none are the primary American West Coast species generally called the Dungeness crab. The very last section, `classifying seafood', is useful for matching up a particular fish with a method in Part 1. This tells me, for example, that the north Atlantic goosefish is a variety of monkfish and the wolfish can be treated like a sea catfish.

The middle part on recipes may be where the notion of `completeness' may lead one to the biggest disappointments. This chapter, for example, has but one simple recipe for court bouillon while Mark Bittman's excellent `Fish' book has three different recipes, including one traditional French recipe and a Cajun `couboillon' recipe. In several other examples I find Stein's recipes to be less than the best. I compared his New England clam chowder recipe with one from Jasper White's definitive '50 Chowders' and I find Stein's recipe pretty uninspired. I say this with confidence because I have made several of White's chowders and they are uniformly excellent dishes. Another symptom that the book is less than complete is the fact that there is no recipe for `New York' clam chowder.

My final word on this book is that if you aspire to be a serious seafood cook, you need at least three books. This volume in addition to Mark Bittman's book of recipes and at least Alan Davidson's book of North Atlantic seafood. It would be best to have all three.

A superior book in many ways, but not complete!

Editorial Review:

Fish is the ultimate sophisticated weeknight or company dinner, but it can intimidate even the most nimble home cooks. RICK STEIN'S COMPLETE SEAFOOD offers an almost limitless repertoire, with detailed instructions and extensive charts. Hundreds of photographs and illustrations show how to scale and gut fish for the grill, bake whole fish in a salt or pastry casing, hot-smoke fish, prepare live crabs, and clean and stuff squid, along with other essential techniques.

CHARCUTERIE AND FRENCH PORK COOKERY

Jane Grigson

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 3 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

"...European civilization...has been founded on the pig." 5 out of 5 stars.
72 of 72 people found this review helpful.

I am on an unholy mission to convert a few Amazonians to the pleasures of do-it-yourself charcuterie. My travels in search of gustatory ecstacy have revealed many a depressing deficiency in American food, one of the most egregious of which is the state of this country's meats. Besides the much-publicized and lamented feed-lot economy that guarantees cheap and flavorless meat for all, we have forfeited the rich, varied, and highly-localized meat traditions of Europe. We have replaced flavor, texture, and local nuance with industrial products that satisfy the huge distributors but leave our tongues and bellies beggared. I am writing a series of reviews that laud a few recent books that do a great job in trying to rectify this impoverishment.

Perhaps the most thorough and comprehensive of the bunch is Jane Grigson's. Over almost 350 dense, detailed pages she covers the hows and whys of charcuterie. Everything from tools and methods to the meat itself is presented in lucid prose, with a fine eye to determining what, exactly, the reader needs to know to make good meat products at home. Sausages of every kind and description, pates, terrines, puddings, saltings, fresh pork preparations, sauces, gallantines... the scope of this book approaches the scope of knowledge a Franch charcutier might possess. Few details escaped Grigson's attention, for her purpose was no humbler than to revive charcuterie in Britain. If she accomplished nothing more than to inspire Fergus Henderson to become the greatest meat-man of his generation, she should rest in peace.

The book has many virtues, readability and enthusiasm not least among them. But its real gift is its comprehensiveness and its almost unique ability to guide the reader through unfamiliar territory. This is a real, fundamental, primary cookbook. Anything more basic would be a farming manual. Which brings me to the point I started to make at the beginning of this screed: our American meat situation is bad because we allow much too much mediation between live meat animals and what we put in our mouths. What Grigson proposes is a hands-on, direct, sensory, real involvement with the raw materials. This, as the great French and Italian food traditions demonstrate so unasailably, is fundamental to great food. When you give up the cheap pleasures of supermarket hamburger and try your hand at basic charcuterie, you will enter a world of memorable pleasures and perhaps rekindle that most basic human value: respect for the sources of what we eat.

You may find my review of Fergus Henderson's The Whole Beast useful in your education as a carnivore.

Enjoy.

Editorial Review:

Every town in France has at least one charcutier, whose windows are dressed with astonishing displays of good food; pates, terrines, galantines, jambon, saucissions sec and boudins. The charcutier will also sell olives, anchovies, condiments as well as various salads of his own creation, making a visit the perfect stop to assemble picnics and impromptu meals. But the real skill of the charcutier lies in his transformation of the pig into an array of delicacies; a trade which goes back at least as far as classical Rome, when Gaul was famed for its hams.

First published in 1969 but unavailable for many years, Jane Grigson's "Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery" is a guidebook and a recipe book. She describes every type of charcuterie available for purchase and how to make them yourself. She describes how to braise, roast, pot-roast and stew all the cuts of pork, how to make terrines, how to cure your own ham and make your own sausages.

Get Saucy: Make Dinner a New Way Every Day with Simple Sauces, Marinades, Glazes, Dressings, Pestos, Pasta Sauces, Salsas, and More

Grace Parisi

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• Get Saucy by Grace Parisi
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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 8 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

very thorough collection, inviting and approachable 5 out of 5 stars.
22 of 22 people found this review helpful.

I've been a subscriber to Food and Wine magazine for years and have really come
to depend on Parisi's recipes. So when I read about her book Get Saucy
recently, I was very excited for its release.
I found the collection of recipes to be thorough and the recipes themselves
concise and totally approachable. I've nearly made my way through the pesto
chapter and particularly loved the Wild Mushroom and Herb pesto, Scallion
Macadamia Nut pesto, Green Chile Scallion pesto and Romesco. The fact that
these are not included in the pasta sauce chapter was initially a little odd,
but upon closer reading, the reason becomes clear. Pestos have multiple uses
that most of us wouldn't ordinarily think of. To put that to the test, I tried
the Green Chile pesto worked into meatballs and inside quesadillas and it was
super!My only quibble is that I wanted more than the recipe made. Next time
I'll double it.
I also liked how the author begins a chapter with a standard type of recipe and
then makes numerous variations. If my pantry lacked a certain ingredient, I
always felt like there was something else I could make or find some
approximation since she offers lots of alternatives to harder to find
ingredients.
Based on my level of cooking, I'm sort of glad Parisi didn't include the dozens
of classic French sauces she could have. Though interesting historically, I'd
never make most of them anyway. She makes a good point that the ones she did
include probably have the most universal appeal or at least are the most
indicative of the technique.
I quite enjoy reading the informative, quirky and anecdotal headnotes. They
make good reading and spark my interest. One issue I have with the organization
of the book however, is that the side bars, recipes contained in boxes and
other tips aren't included in the index. You have to read through a chapter to
find that information. It would be helpful to have those recipes at least
included in the index. I tried the Stir-Fried Beef with Scallions and Mushroom,
a recipe that shows you how to use a stir-fry sauce and it was delicious. There
is a page at the back that lists all those recipes, but it should be easier to
find them. The index otherwise is so overwhelmingly complete. The Sauce Index
by Suggested Use breaks down the food groups and pairs food with them.
Brilliant.
It seems fitting (though maybe a bit contrived) to end the book with dessert
sauces. But I'm never too full at the end of a meal to have something sweet and
I guess the same could be said of reading and using this book.

Editorial Review:

Home cooks of all skill levels can dress up everyday dinner with these 500 sensational recipes. Get Saucy revisits all the classics and creates even more brand-new ones. It's an indispensable kitchen aid.

American Cheeses: The Best Regional, Artisan, and Farmhouse Cheeses, Who Makes Them, and Where to Find Them

Clark Wolf

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Editorial Review:

In 1976, Clark Wolf ran a little cheese shop at the base of Nob Hill in San Francisco; in 1980 he became the manager of the San Francisco branch of the legendary Oakville Grocery. While the rest of America was on the verge of a decade of a morbid fear of butterfat, Wolf was looking for a source of local fresh mozzarella and newly devoted to the joys of rice flour-rubbed teleme and four-year-old Wisconsin cheddar. Today, we are all knee-deep in bocconcini and fresh goat cheese, and Wolf is a restaurant and food consultant. But glorious cheese, particularly American cheese, is still his passion.

In American Cheeses: The Best Regional, Artisan, and Farmhouse Cheeses, Who Makes Them, and Where to Find Them, Wolf gives us an in-depth look at the art and craft of cheese across the United States, and documents in words and beautiful black-and-white photographs the story of the talented and committed women and men who create this dairy ambrosia. He shares his expertise (with a touch of attitude) on how cheese is made, how to store it, and how to serve and enjoy it. Dividing the country into sections -- The Northeast and New England, The South, The Middle West, The Wild West -- he explores the cheese-making communities, discussing the kind of cheeses that are specific to each of the four sections of the country and profiling dozens of the most accomplished cheesemakers, from well-known national brands to the creators of small-batch, hand-crafted rarities. Each profile lists the kinds of cheeses available and contact information for producers and farms. At the end of each regional section is a selection of delectable recipes that showcase the best cheese of that area, from A Perfect Pimento Cheese of the American South to Blue Cheese Pralines from the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island in Michigan.

Williams-Sonoma Collection: Ice Cream (Williams-Sonoma Collection (New York, N.Y.).)

Mary Goodbody

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 14 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Editorial Review:

Vanilla, strawberry, chocolate, coffee: Everyone has a favorite flavor of ice cream. As a simple treat on a hot summer afternoon or an elegant finish to a special meal, ice cream is a versatile dessert that is delightfully easy to make at home.

Williams-Sonoma Collection Ice Cream offers more than 40 recipes for rich ice creams, tangy sorbets, and flavorful granitas. When delicious combinations of ingredients -- fresh cream, fruit at its peak of ripeness, fine-quality chocolate -- are combined and frozen in an ice-cream maker, the results are always sublime. From the crunch of ice creams made with candy, cookies, or nuts to those as smooth as caramel, there are plenty of irresistible choices inside these pages. In addition, an entire chapter devoted to more elaborate ice cream dishes will inspire you to use your favorite flavors to make impressive frozen desserts.

Tempting, full-color photographs of each ice cream make it easy to decide which one to prepare, and photographic side notes highlight essential ingredients and techniques, making Ice Cream more than just a fine collection of recipes. A comprehensive basics section and a detailed glossary will also provide you with everything you need to know to make delicious homemade ice cream your new favorite dessert.

From a scoop of creamy, old-fashioned ice cream to a dish of sweet sorbet or a spoonful of rich gelato -- iced desserts are a refreshing way to enjoy an infinite array of wonderful, sweet flavors.

Williams-Sonoma Collection Ice Cream offers more than 40 easy-to-follow recipes that allow you to make all-time favorites as well as delicious new flavors. Whether you crave an irresistibly rich chocolate-hazelnut gelato, a light and tangy lemon sorbet, or the best vanilla ice cream you have ever tasted, the recipes inside will inspire you to serve ice cream for any occasion. This vividly photographed, full-color recipe collection promises to become an essential addition to your kitchen bookshelf.

"Once you have sampled the flavors inside, you will realize that homemade ice cream is simply the best there is!"

Old-Fashioned Homemade Ice Cream: With 58 Original Recipes

Thomas R. Quinn

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 3 Average rating: 3.5 of 5

Unique Recipes At Reasonable Cost 4 out of 5 stars.
53 of 54 people found this review helpful.

This isn't a fancy book with color photos, in fact the only color photo is on the cover, but it does contain some good old fashioned recipes. There are many variations presented for chocolate and vanilla ice creams, some not requiring any cooking. There are exotic treats such as caramel, banana chocolate, maple walnut and even butterscotch royal ice cream. There's even ice cream recipes that are based on instant pudding and one on jello!

The author covers a brief history of ice cream and covers each of the main ingredients as well as why they're needed.

Negatives:

All of the recipes make about a gallon so you'll have to size them down if your machine can't handle a full gallon. Luckily Ice Cream recipes can be successfully sized down.

Many of the recipies do require cooking of some sort.

Also some recipes use "rennet tablets" something that I'm not familiar with.

----------- Overall this is a good basic book with some unique ice creams at a fantastic price.

Editorial Review:

This informative, enthusiastic guide provides complete instructions and helpful advice for making delicious homemade ice cream, either in a hand-cranked or electric freezer. Includes 58 exotic, mouthwatering ice cream recipes, plus recipes for toppings, sauces, more. Introduction. Illustrated throughout.

Blue Ribbon Preserves: Secrets to Award-Winning Jams, Jellies, Marmalades and More

Linda J. Amendt

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 50 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Very good recipes, although jams did not gel as well as I would have liked... 4 out of 5 stars.
1 of 1 people found this review helpful.

I have made two recipes from this book...strawberry pineapple jam and the Bartlett pear marmalade, and both came out very tasty although did not gel as well as I would have liked. To this day, the pear marmalade is still a bit runny. Granted, I am fairly new to making jam, but I was a little disappointed.

The other thing I would have liked to have seen in this book was recommended times for processing with a pressure canner. I have a flat-top range and can't use any of the enameled canners, and so bought a pressure canner to use instead. I had to just go by the manufacturer's recommended times for the pressure canning which is fine, but considering that pressure canning is the most recommended method for safe at-home preserving, I would have liked it if the author would have included recommended times along with the water bath canning times.

Good book though...looking forward to making more recipes from it.

Editorial Review:

Blue Ribbon Preserves features the award-winning recipes, canning tips, and methods for making preserves that have made Linda J. Amendt one of the top prize-winning cooks in the nation. This handy and helpful volume explains how to make the finest jams, jellies, marmalades, preserves, conserves, butters, curds, fruit, vegetables, juices, sauces, pickles, vinegars, syrups, and specialty preserves. Plus, it has a complete canning guide with the latest methods and safety precautions.

The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy

Sasha Issenberg

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 16 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Editorial Review:

From the sea to your plate, the first international tour of sushi’s journey in the global marketplace

One generation ago, sushi’s narrow reach ensured that sports fishermen who caught tuna in most of the world sold the meat for pennies as cat food. Today, the fatty cuts of tuna known as toro are among the planet’s most coveted luxury foods, worth hundreds of dollars a pound and capable of losing value more quickly than any other product on earth. So how has one of the world’s most popular foods gone from being practically unknown in the U.S. to being served in towns all across America, and in such a short span of time? Sushi aficionados and newcomers alike will be surprised to learn the true history, intricate business, and international allure behind this fascinating food.

A riveting combination of culinary biography, behind-the-scenes restaurant detail, and a unique exploration of globalization’s dynamics, journalist Sasha Issenberg traces sushi’s journey from Japanese street snack to global delicacy. THE SUSHI ECONOMY takes you through the stalls of Tokyo’s massive Tsukiji market, where the auctioneers sell millions of dollars of fish each day, and to the birthplace of modern sushi--in Canada. He then follows sushi’s evolution in America, exploring how it became LA’s favorite food. You’re taken behind the sushi bar with the chef Nobu Matsuhisa, whose distinctive travels helped to define the flavors of global sushi cuisine, and with a unique sushi chef blazing a path in Texas. Issenberg also delves into the complex economics of the fish trade, following the ups and downs of the hunt for bluefin off New England, the tuna cowboys on the southern coast of Australia who invented the art of tuna ranching, and uncovering the mysterious underworld of pirates, smugglers, and the tuna black market.

Few businesses reveal the complex dynamics of globalization as acutely as the tuna’s journey from the sea to the sushi bar. After traversing the pages of THE SUSHI ECONOMY, you’ll never see the food on your plate — or the world around you — quite the same way again.

Grassfed Gourmet Cookbook

Shannon Hayes

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 8 Average rating: 5.0 of 5

Grassfed Gourmet greatly gratifying. 5 out of 5 stars.
4 of 5 people found this review helpful.

I've owned this book for 2 years now and use it so much that I've given copies of it as Christmas gifts to 20 food-loving friends and relatives on both sides of the Atlantic. Everyone loves it. The recipes are mostly uncomplicated, foolproof and delicious. The book is also a great read: Shannon is an amusing, enormously knowledgeable person who will inform and entertain you with delightful style. I just bought her new book, "The Farmer and the Grill", a fascinatingly different slant on a familiar subject with a surprising and very promising Argentinian flavor. Can't wait to try it.

Editorial Review:

In the emerald-green fields of America’s finest pasture-based farms, cattle, pigs, bison, goats, sheep, and poultry roam free, eating what nature intended them to eat. In THE GRASSFED GOURMET COOKBOOK, Cornell professor of sustainable agriculture and community development Shannon Hayes presents 125 recipes spotlighting the unique flavors and distinct characteristics of foods that come from animals raised on pasture. Discover how meat and dairy products are meant to taste through mouthwatering recipes for a wide range of pasture-raised meats and dairy products, including beef, bison, venison, veal, lamb, goat, pork, poultry, rabbits, and cheese. Hayes also discusses the nutritional, environmental, social, and animal-welfare benefits of pasture-based farming as well as simple strategies for finding and preparing grassfed and pasture-raised foods.

Eggs

Michel Roux

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Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 15 Average rating: 4.5 of 5

Phenomenal Cook book. 5 out of 5 stars.
4 of 6 people found this review helpful.

I love this cookbook and proudly display it in our kitchen. Michel Roux has done an amazing job with this book and who would think a book about just eggs would be such a hit. The text, the graphics are all very nicely job not to mention the delicious recipes.

Editorial Review:

The egg is the simplest and most complete food, highly nutritious and versatile enough for the quickest of meals or the smartest of dinner parties. It’s also a favorite of pâtissiers and dessert chefs. Michael Roux--for many years a chef at the top of his profession and a global traveler with a passion for different cuisines--is the ideal author to take a new look at one of the oldest foods of all.

Each chapter is based around a style of cooking eggs, from boiling, frying ,poaching, baking and scrambling, to making the perfect omelet, crêpe, soufflé, meringue and custard. Classic recipes such as Hollandaise Sauce, Eggs Benedict and Lemon Soufflé are given a modern twist, while Michel’s original recipes boast new combinations of flavors or a lighter, simpler style of cooking. Illustrated with 150 stunning photographs and designed in a clear, modern, easy-to-follow style, Eggs is set to become a classic.