James Villas is an old school culinary writer. He was a friend and confidant of both James Beard and Craig Claiborne. He was born and raised in North Carolina and many of his books have featured Southern cooking subjects and styles. This book is no exception.The book is an almost perfect follow-up to his last effort, `Crazy About Casseroles' in that both books deal with a single subject which is at the core of both Southern and American cooking styles. I am especially fond of single subject cookbooks, whether the subject is a style of dish like gratins and casseroles or an ingredient like potatoes or eggs. Therefore, the score of this book starts with a score in my mind of four (4) stars instead of three (3) before I even read the first page.
The book's subject can be divided into two major topics. The first topic is basic biscuit techniques, covering all the variations in flour, leavening, fat, oven temperature, and dough versus batter. The second topic deals with how to apply all those various techniques to sweet and savory additions.
Techniques are covered in Chapters on `Biscuit Basics', `Plain Raised Biscuits', and `Drop Biscuits'. The greatest virtue of basic biscuit technique is its simplicity. This does not mean a person can make good biscuits, much less make good biscuits on the first try, after reading a single recipe that gives no insight into biscuit subtleties. The first batch of biscuits I made a few years ago was from Jim Villas' mother's recipes he published in his memoir `Between Bites'. I confess that the process had me puzzled, sticky, and a bit disappointed, even though I am sure I followed the instructions to a tee.
Part of the puzzle may be due to the fact that making biscuits is a lot more like making pastry than it is like making bread. While bread is vigorously kneaded to develop gluten and the starting mix of ingredients is often warm to accommodate the yeast or other organic starter, biscuits are worked with cold ingredients and low protein (soft) flour. The dough is worked hardly at all and is cut into disks while the fat is still in oatmeal flaked globs. Sounds like pastry to me.
As I have had a fair amount of experience with various recipes from both Southern bakers and baking experts, I can say with confidence that Mr. Villas knows his stuff when it comes to biscuits. I thoroughly endorse his recommendation to use a brand of Southern soft flour such as White Lily. I only have two disappointments with the discussion of techniques. First, Villas describes a classic Southern method of biscuit making wherein the cook empties an entire 5 pound bag of flour into a bowl, adds wet ingredients, salt, and leavenings, and creates a ball of dough in a depression in the dough. Yet, Villas does not give us the recipe for this technique. He doesn't even explain why he doesn't give a recipe. I know there are still serious Southern cooks who use this technique, as I saw one demonstrate the technique on Martha Stewart's show about a year ago. The second disappointment is that he has no basic recipe where the only fat is butter. I have used such a recipe by Nick Malgieri with White Lily flour and buttermilk, and I find it as good or better than Villas' mother's recipe. Otherwise, I think the coverage of biscuit techniques is tiptop. Were I writing the same thing, I may have included a table comparing the recipes. This may facilitate one's personal experiments in the technique. I would also argue that basic biscuit technique is a better starting point for adolescent bakers than the drop biscuit technique. I don't think drop biscuit technique is easier and the basic technique is more versatile.
The second main subject of the book is what you can do with biscuits and biscuit dough. This can be divided roughly into four areas: sweet additions, savory additions, scones, and biscuits as pastry. Appropriate to the title of this review, the range of variations possible in biscuits gives me the idea that a home entertainer can give all their books on French and Spanish and Italian and Greek `little bites' recipes a rest and spend several months experimenting with hors d'ourves / antipasti / tapas / Mezes based on biscuits. As soon as I write this, I confess that even the lightest biscuits may be a bit heavy to stand alone among the martinis and margaritas, but I do suggest that you give the pizza and foccacia a rest and give these recipes a try. As biscuits, like chowder, are very close to being a true American invention, they are perfect as part of American cooking menus.
While I am often surprised at how new many kitchen techniques such as baking powder are, I am also often surprised at how old some methods are. Many techniques such as cooking in a bag and using packaged dough as stew topping are touted as new ideas based on marketed products, when actually the techniques are centuries old. Such is the case with using biscuits as a topping for pot pies and casseroles. Villas raises the veil from our eyes in revealing the historical sources for these old biscuit techniques.
I liked this book a lot and I recommend it to anyone who wishes to master biscuits and who may find a gold mine of quick, relatively easy recipes with a big `wow' factor.
Highly recommended. Intermediate skill level.
