This is the easiest type of cookbook to review because it is simply the most useful type of cookbook to have, so if you find anything which detracts from the books utility, it is a sure sign that the book is not up to snuff. The fact that the two authors are recognized experts on their subject makes the job even easier, because it generally means you can sit back and take their advice with the assurance that they know what they are talking about. These are not two interior decorators who write cookbooks as a sideline. One thing to beware of regarding the authors' reputations is that unlike their earlier books, this book is not exclusively about grilling meats. In fact, grilling is a relatively minor part of this book.By `meat' the authors mean the flesh of domesticated cattle, sheep, and pigs. This follows the conventions of almost all other cookbook authors I have read. It does not mean flesh of fowl, rabbits, or game such as venison. One advantage of this distinction means that many methods useable for one `red meat' animal can often be used for a similar cut of meat from another red meat animal.
The main object of the authors in writing this book is to deal with the fact that while eating a large amount of meat may lead to ingesting an excessive quantity of undesirable fats, eating a reasonable amount of meat provides a high amount of complete proteins essential to human nutrition. The object, then, is to make these reasonable portions as desirable as possible to eat. One result of this objective is to make as wide a range of meat cuts accessible to the home cook as possible. Limiting oneself to steaks, pork loin, and lamb chops will not only become dull after a while, it is also expensive.
An important insight from the authors is that the cost of a cut of meat has nothing to do with the (food) value of the cut. In fact, many writers have claimed that most of the less expensive cuts are actually the most flavorful. I think it is fair to say that the cost of a cut of meat is inversely proportional to the amount of time and effort required to convert the meat into a tasty dish. While an eight dollar a pound fillet can be sautéed and pan roasted in 20 minutes, a three-dollar a pound cut of chuck may take two hours to brown and braise. The reward, however, is that the braised chuck will taste great the next day without any help while the cold beefsteak may need some help to be appealing.
My favorite part of this book is the fact that I share with the authors a love of lamb. This means the authors have devoted a sizable portion of the book to recipes for various cuts of lamb, conveniently divided into a number of chapters based on the types of cooking methods most appropriate to the lamb primal.
The first such chapter deals with the large tender cuts of lamb. This includes the very expensive rack of lamb, the crown roast, bone in and butterflied leg of lamb, lamb saddle, lamb loin and a shoulder roast, prepared in a fashion very similar to the leg of lamb methods.
The second lamb chapter presents recipes for large tough cuts of lamb including lamb shanks and two recipes for braised or barbecued lamb shoulder (you didn't think you could keep these guys away from the barbecue for the whole book).
The third lamb chapter is for small tender cuts such as loin chops, rib chops, lamb tenderloin, leg steaks, and Denver Lamb ribs. This chapter concentrates on grilling techniques for lamb, especially for lamb on skewers.
The fourth chapter is my favorite, after roasted leg of lamb, in that it gives stewing and braising recipes for small tough cuts of lamb. This includes Irish stew, Shepherd's pie, and curried lamb dishes.
The last chapter on lamb has two recipes from `the fifth quarter' otherwise known as offal. It has a recipe for lamb kidneys and lamb tongues.
Between this book and constant harping from my hero Mario Batali, lamb shoulder has come to replace leg of lamb as my favorite lamb cut. They have convinced me that it has better flavor while being substantially less expensive. I have also discovered that it is becoming much easier to find than it may have in the past. Check out farmers market butchers.
In addition to excellent recipes, the book offers general tips on various cooking methods and many tips for making requests of butchers to have them do some of the hard work in preparing the meat for the pot. When roasting a shoulder, I would recommend asking the butcher to fillet the shoulder after it is weighted for sale and give you the bones separately to make lamb stock. Speaking of stocks, this book gives no recipes for them, which I actually consider a plus, as there are more than enough good books with excellent stock recipes. No sense taking up space here for a well-worn subject. Check out Judy Rodgers Zuni Café cookbook for the best stock recipes I've ever seen.
I always look here first when I want a recipe for lamb or veal or pork or beef. It not only gives me the right stuff on what to look for at the butcher, but also how to get the best value from what the butcher can do for me.
This book is highly recommended.
