Jacqueline Higuera McMahan
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Subjects -> Cooking, Food & Wine -> Regional & International -> Mexican
Subjects -> Cooking, Food & Wine -> Regional & International -> U.S. Regional -> California
Subjects -> Cooking, Food & Wine -> General
Customer Reviews:
Total reviews: 13
Average rating: 5.0 of 5
Delicious: I Can�t Wait To Tryout Her Recipes 4 out of 5 stars.
4 of 5 people found this review helpful.
Cookbooks have a critical audience. A five-star book must not only have recipes that produce great dishes, but recipes that read well, producing in the reader's mind a dish that the reader can virtually see and taste. A great cookbook is also more than just a listing of recipes grouped by beef, chicken, and desserts. California Rancho Cooking hits on all these points. Through these recipes we get a glimpse into an early Californio family and through them into early Californio history and life. An additional benefit is that the author lets you in on how she modifies recipes into something new and different. As a cook myself, I know that this is how you really advance in your understanding of the art of cooking... and the fun of cooking. Two recipes especially piqued my interest in this regard: Chilena Pie and the old stand-by and oft poorly made, Chiles Rellenos Con Queso. Her (family's) Chilena Pie makes me ache to get started. In addition, I've already got thoughts on how to (hopefully) make improvements. For those who are similarly inclined, always make the base version first so you really understand the baseline, be careful you do not overuse a individual spice, and never try out your new creation with company first.
For me, Chiles Rellenos in gringo-style restaurants are awful; the coating is reminiscent of white bread and then the poor things are covered in a bland ranchero sauce. McMahan's basic version is akin to mine, but her variations of wrapping them in tortilla is great, and I love the idea of the breadcrumbs. What great ideas. All I can add is to consider that you have other stuffing options than cheese. Oh, her Chiles Rellenos Con Queso are on page 125; it is listed in the index under cheese, not chiles, not rellenos.
The only areas where I could suggest an improvement are:
- Some of the recopies expect the reader to have the author's understanding of the technique to be used. This expectation should not bother most readers, but a new cook could experience some frustration.
- As one who must watch his intake of fats, especially saturated fat, I appreciate it when the nutritional information is provided. This is really de rigueur for modern cookbooks.
- To roast chiles/peppers, many cooks recommend rinsing the charred chiles under running water. McMahan's technique is to place the charred chiles under a wet paper towel to steam and then to wipe off the charred skin. Both techniques are fast and easy, but I prefer to steam them in a small paper bag or a small covered bowl and use the back of a knife or a spoon to remove the charred bits. It is more labor intensive but there is a lot of flavor in the liquid left over from the steaming that I am loath to loose.
These are very minor points, and I really enjoyed this book.
Editorial Review:
Jacqueline Higuera McMahan's personal history as an eighth-generation Californian adds spice to this sumptuous celebration of “the first fusion food.” The recipes, blending Spanish, Mexican, and Californian cuisine, include Butterflied Lamb in Pomegranate Juice, Adobado (Chile-Soaked Pork or Spareribs), Grilled Trout Wrapped in Fig Leaves, and Strawberry Enchiladas with Sweet Milk Tortillas. With dozens of accompanying photographs in this collection of earthy yet sophisticated recipes of old California, McMahan also shares early California lore and memories of family meals.
